Cycling in Kapa’a in Eastside Kaua’i and Anini Beach

We fired up Janie and left sunny Salt Flats camp to our next destination campground at Anini Beach on the north side. The north and east sides of Kaua’i are known as the wet sides. Indeed we had some clouds and a few showers. After a food truck delicious pizza, Ian and I rented cruiser bicycles to cycle the Ke Ala Hele Makalae (Path that goes by the Coast) from Kapa’a north to Donkey Beach. Rain stopped and sky cleared, providing excellent views of red and black cliffs against the backdrop of the bright azure ocean and surf. It isn’t a long cycle and stops kind of abruptly at a grass tunnel and stream. Some folks who hadn’t signed a waiver that they “wouldn’t be riding off Paved trail” carried on mountain bike style. I stopped at the first stream as there was a $10 cleaning charge.

Ian rested. On the return ride we stopped to watch a loggerhead sea turtle feeding on the surf swept rocks, then we carried on to find Liz sound asleep on Kealia Beach. Instead of waking her we pedalled to the north end of Kealia for a lovely cooling swim at the north end where the surf was small.

As we drove to the north, the clouds grew heavier and vegetation was decidedly lusher. Anini campground had suffered from the hurricane that swept out swaths of trees, bridges and shoreline last year. However, it is protected by an offshore barrier reef which makes a lovely reef and sand flat perfect for snorkelling, and swimming in the protected water.

Janie “top-up” at Anini county park

Like the other sites there are many chickens, but Anini has more than its share of roosters! At dusk they pop up to the trees, give a short cock-a-doodle-doo and the highest rooster in the pecking order gets the top spot. Note: don’t camp under a roosting tree!

In the morning the water is sublimely calm.

I snorkelled out close to the break and found lovely area of coral. Each small mount had trigger fish, Moorish Idols, butterfly fish or smallHawaiian puffer fish which were indigo blue with white speckles. The most wonderful sight was the green sea turtles. At one coral mound there were 4 turtles with attendant wrasse. Jenna’s friend Miles thought this might be a “cleaning station”. Indeed the turtles did have much algae on their carapace. While the water was still and clear, it was none too warm. Fortunately, the sun was out as I was shivering mightily.

We made a expedition to Hanalei which used to be a laid back surfing town. Hana lei beach has an big break and lots of surfers and the town has many fancy high priced shops. We had 3 coffees and 1 nut bar in a shop which ended up costing about $24 US. The big storm washed out the Hanalei Bridge blocking access to the Nepali coast, so the end of town was the end of the north road.

One of the features is the Hanalei National Wildlife Area which is an area cooperatively managed by Fish and Game and local farmers to grow traditional taro in rotating ponds that serve as wetlands for Black-necked stilts, Hawaiian Coots, Moorhens and Nene Geese. Sadly this area is closed to public and one only gets a good view on a tour.